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Monday, April 12, 2010

It's all in the detail, darling.


So we had to chop up garments last week.

The project was to find 2nd hand clothes and manipulate it on the stand to create a new shape. I was working on this particularly massive raincoat, and I was going nuts. Chopping up the sleeve, cutting up the collar, pin here, pin there, making this psychotic monster of a shape. And I step back and my tutor comes over and says,
 "Ok. Well, the thing with menswear is.. it's all about the detail. Guys are lazy. They're not that adventurous. The key is to make something that guys can still recognise as a jacket, or a shirt, or a pair of pants, but there's a twist to it that makes them think, ok, that's different, I'm gonna buy it."


I particularly love the way Swedish label Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair manages to do this with their mens pieces. Inspired by the craftmanship of an old shoemaker shop in London, founders Astrid Olsson and Lee Cotter aims to creat collections that explore new shape and form but maintains a classic tailoring aesthetic.
Some examples:



Fun pockets on a classic black shirt.
Photo taken from here

Draped cowl/collar/hood.
Photo taken from here


Flaps on a pair of pants with external pockets.
Photo taken from here

It's great because you can see the way they've still thought about function when designing these pieces.

Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair produce two lines: A ready-to-wear line as well as a couture line that is sold upon order called By The No.

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