Ever since having to design a transformable garment as part of a RTW collection back in my very first year of study, I've been fascinated by the possibilities that transformable garments offer in relation to new design ideas. Functionality in particular is a factor I like to keep in mind with every collection I've designed, from small details like hidden pockets, detachable hoods, zippers to bigger things like removing and reassembling components of a garment to create a whole new piece of clothing (or to the more extreme, Hussein Chalayan's autumn/winter 2000 afterwords collection featured clothes that could transform into furniture). In today's fast-paced culture, functionality and ease of wearability is just as important to the wearer as fashionability and following trends.
I've been trying to find mentors to support my design work and came across a few really interesting projects from a number of some very conceptual and innovative designers.
Vexed Generations
Neoballistic Nylon Parka, Backpack and trousers 1996
Photo taken from museumoflondon
Puma and Vexed Generation collaboration cycler hoodie, 2005
Photo taken from coolhunting.com
Vexed Generatio's multi-functional jackets were created by Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter in 1994 as a reaction to the changing urban lifestyle of the 1990s and the problems that arise with it. Their famous nylon parka (Top image) was designed so that wearers are able to conceal themselves from the increasing number of surveillance cameras that were emerging around the time.
What I appreciate about their garments is how functionality has been demonstrated at its best through a combination of high-performance materials (e.g. bullet proof Kevlar) and smart construction methods (their See and Be Seen jackets can be unzipped in certain sections to reveal light-reflective panels so that wearers on a scooter can be more comfortable when leaning forward on a bike; plus they can be seen on the road!). Not only that, but also the way that they've managed to make these functional qualities very appealing and fashionable! Especially after their collaboration with sport giant Puma!
I can't seem to find any recent projects by them after 2005 though, it would be good to see what else they have been up to. If anyone knows, give me a buzz!
Hussein Chalayan
autumn/winter 2000 afterwords collection
Photo taken from nataliaallen.wordpress
autumn/winter 1999-2000
Photo taken from designboom
spring/summer 2007
Photo taken from notsosnippy.wordpress
Although his more recent collections have drifted away from ideas of fashion as wearable art, Chalayan's past collections showed the designer's fascination with wanting to revolutionize the form and function of fashionable clothing.
I think these examples are very influential in the way that they've encouraged me to think more conceptually about my design work and reconsider the characteristics of both what the wearer is wearing and how it relates to the wearer themselves. This is a fundamental aspect of my end of year collection: I want to create fashions that not only look cool and contemporary, but function well for the modern, urban environment also.
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